Anyone who loves fine detail more than sheer scale
Banteay Srei is a small Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, consecrated in 967 and built by courtiers of King Rajendravarman II rather than by a king. Carved from pink sandstone, it has the finest and deepest decorative carving at Angkor, including the famous pediment of Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa. It lies about 25 km north-east of the main Angkor group, 45 minutes to an hour from Siem Reap, and is covered by the Angkor Pass.
September 2026
Photo: Chi King, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)
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Banteay Srei is a small 10th-century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, carved from rosy pink sandstone and covered in the finest decoration at Angkor. It lies about 25 kilometres north-east of the main temple group, and for many visitors this jewel box of a temple is the unexpected highlight of their trip.
Banteay Srei is tiny next to Angkor Wat. The central towers are barely taller than a two-storey house and the doorways are so low that adults have to stoop. That scale is the point. Every surface was carved with the care of a jeweller, and the red stone has held that detail for more than a thousand years.
Most Angkor temples are built from grey or greenish sandstone. Banteay Srei uses a hard, fine-grained pink sandstone that could be carved almost like wood. The sculptors took full advantage. Pediments are carved so deeply that figures stand almost free of the background, and foliage curls in layers across lintels, pilasters and false doors.
Unusually for Angkor, the pediments tell complete stories from Hindu mythology in a single frame, with characters, landscape and action. Scholars see Banteay Srei as a turning point in Khmer art, and many of its motifs were copied at later temples. The light changes the colour of the stone through the day, from dusty pink to deep coral.
The most famous pediment at Angkor. The many-headed demon king shakes Shiva’s mountain home while animals flee and Shiva and Parvati sit calmly at the top.
Indra sends rain to put out a fire lit by Agni, while Krishna and Arjuna hold it back with a canopy of arrows. Look for the fine diagonal lines of the rain.
Kneeling figures with the heads of monkeys, lions and birds guard the stairs to the three shrines. Most are replicas; the originals were stolen or moved to museums for safekeeping.
Graceful female guardians in niches on the corners of the shrines, with elaborate jewellery and hair. These are the figures Malraux tried to take.
The first pediment you meet shows Indra, god of the east, riding his three-headed elephant. It sets the tone for everything inside.
Look closely at the false doors of the shrines, carved to imitate panelled wood, and at lintels thick with garlands, monster faces and tiny figures.
The central shrines stand on a raised platform behind a rope, so you view them from a few metres away. The libraries and gateways can be seen up close, which is where the best carving is.
| Ticket | Covered by the Angkor Pass: 1 day $37, 3 days $62, 7 days $72 |
|---|---|
| Pass check | Your pass is checked at the entrance, so buy it before you set off |
| Children | Under 12 free; bring a passport as proof of age |
| Opening hours | Daily, reported as 6:00 am to 6:30 pm; confirm locally |
| Time needed | 45 minutes to an hour at the temple, plus the drive |
| Facilities | Car park, toilets, restaurants and stalls at the entrance, and a small interpretation centre |
Banteay Srei is small, so crowds matter more here than at larger temples. Tour groups tend to arrive from mid-morning until early afternoon. Arrive at opening time or after about 3:30 pm and you will enjoy it in relative calm, with the warm light that makes the stone glow.
For the season, November to February brings the most comfortable temperatures. In the green season from June to October the rice fields along the road are brilliant green and the stone turns a richer red when wet. March to May is very hot; an early start is essential.
Banteay Srei is about 25 kilometres north-east of the main Angkor group, near the village of the same name. From Siem Reap the drive takes 45 minutes to an hour by car and a little longer by tuk-tuk along a paved road through villages and rice fields. It usually forms part of the “grand circuit” day, or a separate half day on its own.
On the way, many visitors stop at Pre Rup or at Banteay Samre, a well-restored 12th-century temple in the Angkor Wat style. The Cambodia Landmine Museum also lies on the road to Banteay Srei and makes a thought-provoking stop.
Kbal Spean, the “river of a thousand lingas”, is further north in the foothills of the Kulen hills. Carvings of Vishnu, Shiva and hundreds of lingas are cut into the riverbed and banks, reached by a forest walk of about 1.5 kilometres uphill. It pairs perfectly with Banteay Srei:
Check whether Kbal Spean needs a separate ticket when you plan; recent reports differ. If you have time for a longer day, Phnom Kulen is also in this direction, with its waterfall and reclining Buddha.
We schedule Banteay Srei for the soft morning or late afternoon light, with a private driver and a Khmer guide who can read the stories in the stone. It features in our Siem Reap Slow Travel and Cradle of the Khmer journeys, and we can add it to any trip. Explore our heritage experiences or send us an enquiry.
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