Two nights of forest, river and no phone signal
The Cardamom Mountains are the largest surviving rainforest in mainland South-East Asia, and the Tatai river on their southern edge is the easiest way into them. The waterfall is a wide series of rock shelves rather than a single drop - swimmable in dry season, a torrent in the wet - and the river is lined with a handful of genuinely off-grid lodges.
September 2026