A late afternoon out of Battambang, ending with the bats
National parks and natureType
In short
Phnom Sampeau is a limestone hill about 12 km south-west of Battambang, topped by the pagoda of Wat Phnom Sampeau. Its caves were used as execution sites by the Khmer Rouge and are now a memorial, and every evening from about 5:30 pm a colony of wrinkle-lipped bats said to number in the millions streams out of a cave at its foot for 30 to 40 minutes. Most visitors combine the memorial, the summit views and the bat exodus in one late afternoon.
About 12 km south-west of Battambang, on the road to Pailin
Getting there
20 to 30 minutes by tuk-tuk; drivers usually wait
Bat exodus
Daily at dusk, usually from about 5:30 pm, lasting 30 to 40 minutes
Bat species
Wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bats
Entry
A small fee of a few dollars for the hilltop; bats free to watch
Getting up
More than 700 steps, or a moto ride up the road
Killing caves
Khmer Rouge execution site, now a memorial with a reclining Buddha
Also on the hill
Wat Phnom Sampeau, summit viewpoint, war-era artillery, monkeys
Time needed
Three to four hours, late afternoon to dark
Dress
Cover shoulders and knees for the pagoda and memorial
Phnom Sampeau is a limestone hill 12 kilometres south-west of Battambang, crowned by pagodas and honeycombed with caves. At dusk, a colony of bats said to number in the millions pours from a cave on its flank in a ribbon that lasts half an hour or more. Higher up, the killing caves of Phnom Sampeau are a quiet memorial to people murdered here under the Khmer Rouge.
12 kmSouth-west of Battambang
Around 5:30 pmBats begin to emerge
30 to 40 minLength of the exodus
700+Steps to the summit
Half a dayLate afternoon to dark
Most visitors come for the bats, and rightly so: it is one of the great natural sights of Cambodia. But the hill holds a great deal more, and it deserves a whole afternoon. It is sacred, beautiful and, in places, deeply sad. We suggest you see it in that order: the history first, the views next, and the bats as the day ends.
The ship mountain and its legend
Sampeau means “ship” in Khmer. Local legend tells of a prince cursed to live as a crocodile, who fell in love with a young woman named Rumsay Sok. The story ends in heartbreak, and the prince, his servants and his ship were turned to stone. The ship became Phnom Sampeau; the nearby hill of Phnom Krapeu, “crocodile mountain”, is the prince himself.
The hill rises steeply from flat rice paddies, which is why it has long been both a holy place and a strategic one. It has long been home to monks, and during the civil war that followed the Khmer Rouge years it was used as a military position. Old artillery still stands on the summit, pointed towards Phnom Krapeu, which was a Khmer Rouge stronghold.
The killing caves
Under the Khmer Rouge, between 1975 and 1979, the caves of Phnom Sampeau were used as execution sites. Victims were led to the rim of a natural shaft above the main cave and killed, and their bodies fell into the cavern below. Men and women were taken to separate caves.
Today the main cave is a memorial. A golden reclining Buddha lies at its foot, beside a glass case holding the bones of victims recovered from the cave. Steps lead down into the cave, where a shaft of daylight from above falls on the place where so many died.
Visiting with care
It is a grave site. The remains are displayed openly, as at other Cambodian memorials. Some visitors prefer to pause at the entrance rather than go down.
Take a guide. Many Battambang guides and tuk-tuk drivers lost family under the Khmer Rouge. Hearing the history from them gives it a meaning a sign cannot.
With children. Prepare older children beforehand, and let younger ones skip the caves and wait at the pagoda or viewpoint with an adult.
Please do
Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees
Speak quietly and move slowly in the caves
Leave a small offering or light incense if you wish
Please don’t
Photograph the remains, or pose for photos in the caves
A working monastery with a brightly painted hall, its walls covered in murals of the Buddha’s life and Cambodian legends. Monks live here, so visit respectfully.
Panorama
The viewpoint
From the stupas at the summit you look out over a patchwork of rice fields, sugar palms and the neighbouring hills. It is lovely in the late-afternoon light.
War relics
The guns
Rusting artillery pieces left from the civil war still stand among the pagodas, a reminder that the fighting here continued long after 1979.
Unfinished
The giant Buddha
A huge Buddha, around 9 metres tall, was begun in the rock face of the hill, but only the head was carved before the money ran out.
The monkeys at the top are bold. Keep food out of sight and hold on to sunglasses, hats and phones.
The bat exodus at dusk
The colony lives in a cave in the cliff near the foot of the hill. They are wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bats, and every evening, as the light fades, they leave to feed on insects over the rice fields.
It begins with a handful, then a stream, then a continuous twisting ribbon that snakes away across the plain. On a good night it lasts 30 to 40 minutes, sometimes more. The sound, a high chattering like rain, is as memorable as the sight.
Start time
Usually from about 5:30 pm, shifting with the season and the light
Duration
30 to 40 minutes, sometimes longer
Where to watch
From the road below the cave mouth, where drink stalls and cafés gather
Best season
Year-round; clear evenings are best, and heavy rain can delay or thin the flight
Cost
Free to watch; buy a drink at one of the stalls
Your driver will know the current timing better than any website. Arrive by 5:00 pm to find a seat and a good angle.
Tickets, getting up and practical tips
A small entrance fee, usually a few dollars, is collected for the hilltop temples and caves. Confirm the current amount locally.
By foot. A long stairway of more than 700 steps climbs to the summit from the base. Allow 30 to 45 minutes, more in the heat.
By motorbike. Local moto drivers wait at the bottom and take visitors up the road to the top and back for a few dollars. The easiest option.
Getting there. Phnom Sampeau is on the road to Pailin, about 20 to 30 minutes from Battambang by tuk-tuk. Most drivers wait and bring you back after the bats.
What to bring. Water, sun protection, insect repellent for the evening and a torch or phone light for the walk back to the road.
An afternoon on Phnom Sampeau
2:30 pm Leave Battambang by tuk-tuk
3:00 pm Moto or climb up the hill, stopping at the killing caves on the way
4:00 pm Wat Phnom Sampeau, the murals and the summit viewpoint
5:00 pm Down to the road below the bat cave, and a cold drink
5:30 pm The bat exodus
6:30 pm Back in Battambang for dinner
Phnom Sampeau pairs beautifully with the Phare circus school in Battambang, whose students perform in the evening several nights a week. Add the bamboo train and the countryside villages, and Battambang easily fills two or three days. Explore our village experiences for more.
Visiting with My Travel Factory
Our Battambang guides take you through the history of Phnom Sampeau with care and knowledge, then find you the best spot for the bats. The hill features on our Cardamom Wild West Trail dirt bike expedition and our Grand Cambodia journey, and we can add Battambang to any itinerary between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Tell us your plans.
Questions travellers ask
What is Phnom Sampeau?
A limestone hill near Battambang with a hilltop pagoda, caves used as Khmer Rouge killing sites and a huge bat colony that emerges at dusk.
What time do the Battambang bats come out?
Usually from around 5:30 pm, as the light fades. The timing shifts with the season, so arrive by 5:00 pm and ask your driver.
How long does the bat exodus last?
Usually 30 to 40 minutes, sometimes longer, as the bats stream out in a continuous ribbon.
How far is Phnom Sampeau from Battambang?
About 12 km south-west of the town, 20 to 30 minutes by tuk-tuk on the road to Pailin.
How much does it cost to visit Phnom Sampeau?
A small entrance fee of a few dollars is collected for the hilltop temples and caves. Watching the bats from the road is free. Confirm current prices locally.
What are the killing caves of Phnom Sampeau?
Caves where the Khmer Rouge executed people between 1975 and 1979, throwing their bodies into the cavern. The main cave is now a memorial with a reclining Buddha and victims' remains.
Is it appropriate to visit the killing caves?
Yes, if you visit respectfully. Dress modestly, keep your voice low and do not photograph the remains. Some visitors choose to pause at the entrance instead.
How do you get to the top of Phnom Sampeau?
Climb the stairway of more than 700 steps, or take a moto taxi up the road from the base for a few dollars.
Is Phnom Sampeau suitable for children?
The bats and summit views are great for children. Prepare older children for the killing caves and let younger ones skip them.
What kind of bats live at Phnom Sampeau?
Wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bats, which fly out every evening to feed on insects over the surrounding rice fields.
Are there monkeys on Phnom Sampeau?
Yes, at the summit. They are bold, so keep food hidden and hold on to your belongings.
The Battambang bamboo train, or norry, is a bamboo platform on steel wheels, driven by a small engine along railway tracks through the countryside. The original…
What
A bamboo platform on steel wheels, driven by a small engine along the rails
Where
Tourist line near Phnom Banan, about 20 km south of Battambang
