At a glance
The short version
- Where
- The Tonle Sap lake, south of Siem Reap
- How long
- A half day, usually afternoon for the light
- High water
- Roughly September to November, when the lake is at its largest
- Low water
- The stilts are at their most striking from March to May
- Which village
- We avoid the closest and busiest ones - ask us why
- Bring
- Sun cover. There is very little shade on the water
The Tonle Sap does something almost no other body of water does: twice a year it changes direction.
When the Mekong swells in the wet season it pushes water back up the Tonle Sap river and the lake swells to several times its dry-season size. When the Mekong drops, the lake drains back out. Everything about how people live here follows that rhythm – houses that float and are towed, or stilts that look absurd in March and correct in October.
An honest note
The village closest to Siem Reap has a poor reputation, and it is earned. We go further out. It costs an hour and removes the part of this trip people complain about.
Questions travellers ask
Is the Tonle Sap trip a tourist trap?
Some versions are. The nearest village to Siem Reap has a reputation for hard selling and staged encounters. We use quieter ones further out, which takes longer and is worth it.
When is the lake at its best?
September to November for scale, when the reverse flow has filled it. March to May for the drama of the stilt houses standing high and dry.
Is it suitable for children?
Yes, with sun cover and an eye on the boat rails.
Will I see the fishing?
Usually, in season. It is working water, not a display.
