The Art Deco dome of the Central Market, Phnom PenhPhoto: Christophe95, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Journey II - French colonial & Art Deco - 7 days

Colonial Traces

Discover how French planning, Art Deco modernity and Khmer tradition met in Cambodia's towns: from the boulevards and museum of Phnom Penh, to the riverside shophouses of Battambang, the faded charm of Kampot and the misty hill station of Bokor.

7Days 4Towns 1937Central Market 24 hrReply time
Get a tailored quote See the day by day
In short

What this trip is

Colonial Traces is a 7 day, 6 night private architecture tour starting and ending in Phnom Penh, covering French-era Cambodia from the 1860s to independence in 1953. It takes in the Royal Palace, the Khmer-revival National Museum, the colonial quarter around Wat Phnom and the Art Deco Central Market, two days in Battambang's old town and countryside, Kampot's French quarter and the 1925 Bokor Palace Hotel. The pace is relaxed and walking-focused.

  • 1

    Art Deco

    Phnom Penh's domed Central Market of 1937, with its four radiating wings, and the shophouse streets around it.

  • 2

    Battambang

    Cambodia's best-preserved colonial streetscape: riverside shophouses, Phsar Nat and the 1930s railway station.

  • 3

    The architect's note

    Look at the shophouses: ground-floor trading space, living quarters above, deep shuttered windows and a covered five-foot walkway. A building type shared across Southeast Asia, adapted here with French detailing and Khmer craftsmanship.

Highlights

What you will actually do

01 - Art Deco Aerial view of the Central Market and its four wings, Phnom PenhPhoto: Rik Schuiling / TropCrop-TCS, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Phsar Thmei, the Central Market

Phnom Penh's Art Deco landmark: a great dome and four radiating wings, surrounded by shophouse streets.

1937Art DecoWalking
02 - Battambang Colonial shophouses on Road No 1, BattambangPhoto: Christophe95, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The colonial old town

Rows of colonial shophouses along the Sangker River, the Art Deco market of Phsar Nat, the railway station and the Governor's Residence.

ShophousesPhsar NatPhare circus
03 - Bokor The Bokor Palace Hotel in the mist, Bokor National ParkPhoto: Matnkat, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.5)

A 1920s hotel above the clouds

The Bokor Palace Hotel, opened in 1925, the stone Catholic church and the remains of a colonial retreat, often wrapped in mist.

Hill station1925Mist
Day by day

7 days / 6 nights, hour by hour

Every timing below is a starting point, not a rule. Tell us your flights and we rebuild the shape of the trip around them.

Day 1

Royal and colonial Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

The Throne Hall of the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh
Photo: Christophe95, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Royal and colonial Phnom Penh

The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, where Khmer forms meet European construction. Then the National Museum (1920), designed by George Groslier in a Khmer-revival style, and a walk through the old French quarter around Wat Phnom: the Central Post Office, colonial villas and the Hotel Le Royal (1929).

Day 2

Art Deco Phnom Penh, then west

Phnom Penh - overnight Battambang

The Art Deco dome of the Central Market, Phnom Penh
Photo: Christophe95, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Art Deco Phnom Penh, then west

Morning at Phsar Thmei, the Central Market, whose great dome and four radiating wings are Phnom Penh's Art Deco landmark. Browse the surrounding shophouse streets before an afternoon transfer to Battambang.

Day 3

Battambang old town

Battambang

The 1930s railway station, Battambang
Photo: Christophe95, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Battambang old town

A guided walk along the Sangker River past rows of colonial shophouses to Phsar Nat, the Art Deco central market, the 1930s railway station and the Governor's Residence, built around 1905 at the end of Siamese rule. Evening performance at the Phare Ponleu Selpak circus.

Day 4

Battambang countryside

Wat Kor - Phnom Banan - Ek Phnom

The 11th-century towers of Phnom Banan, Battambang
Photo: Christophe95, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Battambang countryside

Inside traditional Khmer wooden stilt houses in Wat Kor village, then up to the 11th-century hilltop temple of Phnom Banan and on to Ek Phnom. A day that sets the colonial town against far older traditions.

Day 5

Journey south to Kampot

Overnight Kampot

The restored old market, Kampot
Photo: Marcin Konsek, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Journey south to Kampot

A full travel day across the country via Phnom Penh, with a relaxed lunch stop, arriving in riverside Kampot in time for dinner.

Day 6

Kampot's French quarter

Kampot

French-era shophouses on Old Market Street, Kampot
Photo: Marcin Konsek, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Kampot's French quarter

Riverside streets of faded yellow shophouses, the old bridge and the restored old market, with the stories of the salt and pepper trade that built the town. Sunset boat cruise on the Praek Tuek Chhu river.

Day 7

Bokor Hill Station and return

Bokor National Park - Phnom Penh

The Bokor Palace Hotel, opened 1925, Bokor Mountain
Photo: Oobmak, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Focus

Bokor Hill Station and return

Up Bokor Mountain to the French hill station: the Bokor Palace Hotel (opened 1925), the stone Catholic church and the remains of a colonial retreat, often wrapped in mist. Transfer to Phnom Penh, or extend to Kep.

No surprises

What is included, and what is not

Included

  • 6 nights' accommodation with daily breakfast
  • Private air-conditioned vehicle and driver for all transfers
  • Licensed English-speaking guide with heritage expertise
  • Entrance fees as per itinerary
  • Phare circus ticket (Battambang)
  • Kampot sunset river cruise
  • Bottled water daily

Not included

  • International flights and Cambodian visa fees
  • Travel insurance (strongly recommended)
  • Meals not listed as included
  • Drinks, tips and personal expenses
  • Optional activities and camera fees where charged
Answers

Colonial Traces questions, answered

Which hotel tier should I choose?
Every journey runs in three tiers, priced per person on request. Classic: characterful 3-star and boutique hotels with a private vehicle and guide - ideal for independent travellers and students. Superior, our most popular: handpicked 4-star and heritage boutique hotels, a specialist guide and selected dinners. Luxury: 5-star resorts and landmark heritage hotels, a premium vehicle, a senior specialist guide and curated dining.
Can the three journeys be combined?
Yes - as the Grand Architectural Journey of about 18 days. Begin with the Khmer Empire in Siem Reap, travel west to colonial Battambang, drop south to Kampot, Bokor and the modernist villas of Kep, and finish in Phnom Penh among the New Khmer landmarks. Transfers are sequenced so no ground is covered twice.
Who are these journeys for?
Architects, designers and students; culture-focused travellers; photographers; alumni and professional groups; and returning visitors who have done Angkor and want to understand the rest of the country. We also tailor them for universities and architecture associations.
Can every building be visited inside?
Not always. Several modernist buildings are private, government-occupied or under redevelopment, and access can change at short notice. We confirm arrangements close to travel and offer alternatives where needed.
What add-ons are available?
Banteay Chhmar temple (with Stone Kingdoms), an extra night in Kep, architectural sketching sessions, a professional photography guide and private dinners at heritage venues.
Go deeper

Experiences inside this trip

All experiences
Architecture experiences in Cambodia New Khmer & colonial

Architecture

Three private journeys: Stone Kingdoms, Colonial Traces and New Khmer. Heritage experiences in Cambodia Temples & Angkor

Heritage

Sunrise at Angkor Wat and the temples of the Khmer Empire. Food experiences in Cambodia Khmer cuisine

Food

Cooking classes, street-food tours and Kampot pepper tastings.
Compare

The other architectural journeys

All journeys
01 Stone Kingdoms — Cambodia tour package 8 days / 7 nights
8 days - 7th to 13th century

Stone Kingdoms

Khmer temple building in the order it happened - from the brick towers of Sambor Prei Kuk to Angkor Wat and the clifftop at Preah Vihear.

  • RoutePhnom Penh - Kampong Thom - Siem Reap - Koh Ker - Preah Vihear
  • Best forArchitects, students and returning Angkor visitors
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02 New Khmer — Cambodia tour package 5 days / 4 nights
5 days - 1953 to today

New Khmer

Vann Molyvann's Phnom Penh, the ruined modernist villas of Kep and the 1960s port city of Sihanoukville.

  • RoutePhnom Penh - Kep - Sihanoukville - Phnom Penh
  • Best forArchitects, designers and modernism enthusiasts
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Ready when you are

Send your dates and group size. We come back with a costed version of this trip, reshaped around you.

Plan Colonial Traces
Colonial Traces 7 days / 6 nights · Private Enquire